Sightseeing Kauai - The EAST SIDE

By Joan Conrow

Although everyone begins their Kaua'i vacation in Lihu'e at the airport, they tend to forget all about Kaua'i County's capital city until it's time to return for the flight back home. But Lihu'e has charms all its own, including a pretty harbor that is a good starting point for a tour of the "Eastside." Two small retail centers, Anchor Cove Shopping Center and Harbor Mall, virtually face each other across Rice Street, so it's easy to check out the region's surprisingly varied collection of shops and restaurants.

Another attraction is the Huleia River, which cuts through a refuge for endangered Hawaiian birds and enters the ocean adjacent to a small beach park. You can launch a kayak and paddle up past the mangrove- covered stone walls of Alekoko Fish Pond. At nearby Kilohana (West of Lihu'e off Hwy. 50), step back through time with a visit to Kauai's first mansion, now a living museum of the island's plantation era, and a ride on a newly restored, narrow-gauge train on the Kaua'i Plantation Railway.

The 40-minute, conductor-narrated tour takes visitors through 100 acres of crops and herds, including pineapple, sugarcane, bananas, papayas, coffee, taro, tropical flowers, wild pigs, goats, sheep, donkeys, cattle and even Clydesdale horses. If you've got the time, a leisurely train/hike/lunch tour option offers the chance to explore the lush Kahuna Nui Valley and learn more about the area's rich cultural history.

Speaking of history, back in Lihu'e the Kaua'i Museum is filled with local history in the form of exhibits, authentic crafts, vintage collectibles, the work of Kaua'i artists and an excellent selection of books.

Then it's off to Kapa'a, the island's biggest town, traveling on Kuhio Highway past Wilcox Memorial Hospital. The road dips down into Kapaia Valley; watch for Ma'alo Road on your left. It leads to Wailua Falls, a beautiful cascade featured in the TV show "Fantasy Island" that is well worth the short drive. Return to the highway, which climbs out of the valley and passes through Hanamaulu, a tiny town that's a throwback to plantation days.

The many stores and restaurants along this corridor will also catch your eye. You'll pass numerous shopping centers; the Coconut Marketplace is the largest and most diverse, but they all have something different to offer. Stop and park at the northern end of Kapa'a town so you can wander through the shops and boutiques that occupy the restored historic buildings.

Tip for parents: The Kaua'i Children's Discovery Museum in the Kaua'i Village (Safeway) Shopping Center is a great stop for little travelers who will enjoy learning about the island's plants, animals and natural history through hands-on exhibits and activities (see our Calendar of Events in the TV section for more info.).

By now you're likely ready for the sand and surf, so it's fortunate that Kealia Beach is the last stop. This long stretch of white sand runs parallel to the highway. If your timing is right, you might even find yourself on this east-facing shore as a full yellow moon, or brilliant red sun, rises up from the Pacific and heads skyward, creating a pathway of light that sparkles on the water - Hawai'i at its best!