Kauai’s overall size is small, but many of its attractions are bigger than life. This becomes apparent when you tour the western side of the island and see the result of mighty natural forces at work over millions of year.

To get there, simply drive west on Kaumualii Highway (Hwy. 50), past the turnoff to Koloa. Your next stop is Kalaheo, a pleasant little town that marks the unofficial border between the south and west sides.

Small, sleepy towns with an old-Hawaii feel are characteristic of the “Westside,” and Hanapepe is one of the most charming. It’s attracting a growing number of artists, who have opened galleries and small shops in some of the historic buildings along the Main Street that runs parallel to the highway.

As you travel, you’ll pass the last sugar plantation on Kauai. Across the water you will see Niihau, the home to about 200 Native Hawaiians who follow many of the traditional Hawaiian customs. This privately owned “Forbidden Isle” allows visits; however, they are restricted to private hunting excursions and helicopter tours managed by the Robinson Family, owners of the island.


















Standing in sharp contrast to the tiny, ramshackle, plantation camps is Waimea, a lovely town with a long history. It was a major Hawaiian settlement when Captain Cook landed in 1778, an event commemorated by two monuments. Walking tours of the town and Waimea’s mill camp will take you back in time.

A short drive along a sandy shoreline takes you to Kekaha, whose sugar mill has closed. Beyond that lies the Pacific Missile Range Facility and a rough, unpaved road to the broad, sandy beaches of Polihale State Park. The coarse grains of sand reportedly make a squeaking noise as they rub together under your feet, accounting for the area’s nickname, “Barking Sands.”

West Kauai has the hottest weather on Kauai, but it’s easy to escape the scorching heat by driving up the mountain. As you climb, you will soon encounter such scenic wonders as the colorful expanse of Waimea Canyon, also known as the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific.”

The area receives 466 inches of rain fall each year on Waialeale, one of the wettest spots in the world. As you continue up the mountain, you’ll eventually reach the misty forests and ferns of Kokee State Park.

This wilderness area in Kokee is a delight for hikers, photographers, and those who appreciate nature’s handiwork. Up on the mountain it feels like you’re on the top of the world, and in a sense, you are, as you gaze at the Eden-like scene thousands of feet below. It’s impossible to describe the grandeur of this place, which is felt as much as seen. So head west, and experience it yourself.